Drill & tap a hole in the side or top edge of the bar, problem solved.
Tow bar noise
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I always thought that you are supposed to loosen the bolt when towing. I've welded on many new nuts (Toyota) as the spot welds holding the original nuts break quite easily with the 100kg + downball loading if they are positioned under and behind the hitch pin. Of course the picture above is different because the bolt threads straight into the receiver.96 XJ Limited "Jethro"
4" hybrid lift
32" KM2's
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Originally posted by Clarky View PostDrill & tap a hole in the side or top edge of the bar, problem solved.
I have noted that different manufacturers prefer this location.. maybe they do know?
One thing I do know is that the noise is less with the trailer connected .. with the tow ball properly adjusted.There are 4 wheel drives, and there are Jeeps... seems I found out too late in life.
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I'm with Numb Thumbs on this one. Looking at mine is it could easily take a knock and cause some swear words to come out! Maybe one of the bolt head protectors – like the ones Chief Products sent me with the sump protection plate would be an easy fix.2012 WK2 Overland, Brilliant Black, Brilliant CRD, Brilliant car...
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Tow bar noise
Originally posted by Clarky View PostMine has the bolt underneath & if anyone is going to sheer it off it would be me, so far no problems.
Same, no problem to date with mine and I've had it in some pretty rocky climbs in the Vic High Country. Next time you get a chance, park next to another Brand 4by and have a look at the clearance angle on your GC compared to a Pajero, Cruiser, dual cab etc. The departure angle on ours is one of the best and you would normally remove your tow tongue when off road. The only damage I've done to date was to my aux tank and that was 100% driver error when I was reversing back down a rocky section and should have had someone spotting me, to tell me that I was about to drop into a rut.....
Interestingly, when I do go off road I usually slip the recovery post and shackle into the hitch and the bolt underneath screws right up and in with no contact between the post and bolt, so you could actually remove the bolt altogether when off road. If you're worried about potential damage to the internal thread because it's open, then a grub screw would do the trick.
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2012 WK2 GC Laredo Diesel with all the goods I can find.
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Fair enough, however just because it hasn’t happened yet doesn’t mean that it can’t or won’t. It’s not a big issue - all I’m saying is it could be taken completely out of the equation by putting a bolt head protector on it.2012 WK2 Overland, Brilliant Black, Brilliant CRD, Brilliant car...
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Back to OP's query, I have noticed that the WK2 is very noisy towing. I have 3 trailers and they are all noisy on the wk2. Race car trailer, 6x12 tandem & 8x5 single axle. Lots of rattling and clunking. Put the same on the rubicon- silent!
Dealership went down the path of tightening the bolt, already FT. Tried new tow ball too. No explanation apparent.
Dunno what the problem is. Possibly noise transmitting throughout the chassis?Last edited by jzp; 25-06-2014, 09:27 PM._______________________________________
JZP
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