P1499 code Hydraulic Solenoid repair solution

[timbotrog]

Quite a while ago I got the dreaded P1499 code and had to sort a way of fixing the issue.

I looked and tried everywhere I could. The only guaranteed solution was over $1100 from the Jeep dealer with no idea on a time frame on how long it would take to get in.

My problem was just the solenoid was stuffed and needed replacing. I couldn't find just the solenoid anywhere but I did discover that several other cars use the same type of cooling system. I then discovered that at least one had and almost identical solenoid but I couldnt get any images of the pin connectors to find out if it was a two or three wire connector.

I found this on ebay but they weren't very helpful to say the least. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280809764...84.m1436.l2649

After posting a similar thread on jeepforum.com one of the guys saw this and purchased one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160808222...84.m1436.l2649
It's the same as the unit I found but now we know it has the two wires and other than the plastic connector it is identical.

Here is his post in the thread I started on the other forum.

:Hello everyone, I too have been having issues with my GC overheating due to the hydraulic fan solenoid. After dealing with this problem for months now I decided to take a shot in the dark and purchase a lincoln LS fan solenoid off of ebay for about 150$. of course the connectors don't match up but after comparing it to the jeep one it is identical. So I just installed it yesterday Did my own little redneck harness by cutting off the end of my wireing harness and putting a couple of small insulated female stak-on's. I then I pushed them onto the solenoid and filled surrounding areas with some high-temp silicon. I then loosened the temperature sensor from between the alternator and the a/c compressor (after doing this the computer will send a signal to the fan to run at full speed just seconds after you start it, like a protection mode). I started my car and BAM the fan started hauling *** , I reconnected the temp sensor and the fan slowed down to normal operating speed. let it idle for 2hours with a/c on full blast in 103 degree heat ....no problems ... I hope this info helps other people. the part Ford part number for the actuator is xw4z-3783-ca I picked mine up on ebay for like 150

It works with a very small modification. Finally we can get these things fixed at a good price.

Now all we have to do is to find out who makes them and see if we can get the units with the jeep connector manufactured.

Cheers
Tim

[Elvman]

That's awsome. I've had the same fault for a while. Managed to get a hold of a wrecker whos gettin a grand in for wrecking soon and has said I can have just the solenoid. But it's good to see theres a new part for a reasonable price. Good work.

[drover]

Same part on the 2.7 CRD also, done a bit of a search and that Ford looks like the one.

[shahav]

Please allow me to pull this thread to the top.

Recently i've changed my thermostat to a new, which opens at 87c. So far so good, the engine temp climb fast the correct point and fuel usage is dropped properly, since the engine is at the correct temp.

Still, on hot days the temp climbs beyond 100c which is fine, but the fan is pre-"programmed" to come way later, around 110c.
I would like to add a button in the main cabin to bypass the fan control and ask for takeoff mode of the fan, very similar to the case when disconnecting the main temp connection.

Any ideas how to achieve this?

[fester]

My temp never went beyond 100 degrees even when towing. It normally sat around 90 in normal warn circumstances.

I'm not sure about the way to override the fan other than tapping into the trigger wire and adding a direct power feed from a switch and relay but I'm not sure of this in the context of a modern engine with such detailed ECU control. It may or may not upset the ECU. If the fan runs without the temp sensor connected you could have an off switch on that.

However my main issue is why do it at all. Must admit I did not know the fan came on at 110 but if that is the way it was designed and it is working fine that way I see no benefit in modifying it. It is unlikely 110 degrees is a critical temp for the CRD, do you know what the boiling point of the system is. Modern cooling systems are not like the old days where 100 degrees is critical temp, many run happily up to around 125 for example.

If you start running the fan a lot sooner and therefore often be sure it doesn't start overtaxing the power steering system which I'd be more concerned about.

[bleetnblurt]

I wonder how many people know the difference between fahrenheit and Celsius ?
if they do then why some still keep thinking the jeep reads in Celsius ?
I thought the wj/wg < still a wj in usa ) is in Fahrenheit.

[bleetnblurt]

and just like ALL cars , if it does get hot (over the so called half way mark)
can happen for a number of reasons here is a few :
ADDING WATER TO SYSTEM
BLOCKED RAD DUE TO SCALE BUILD UP FROM ADDING WATER TO SYSTEM
A FAULTY RAD CAP , FAULTY THERMOSTAT
A COLASPED INTAKE TO ENGINE RAD HOSE
FAILED WATER PUMP
FAULTY COOLING FAN/S and BLOCKED COOLING FINS ON RAD AND/OR AC SYSTEM
SOMEONE PLAYING WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM AND DOESNT KNOW HOW TO REFILL CORRECTLY AND IT RUNS LOW AND COOKS ENGINE.
there are others , but cant be razooed to go through .
if there be a problem with it , do it right DONT SHORTCUT

[bleetnblurt]

if you want a WHOLE hydrolic fan I have one here ! it has been sitting for the past four months , with near new power line feed pipe (yeah there dear ) it has been sitting for months here and on the for sale of this forum ,
if you live in VIC or can arrange courier you can have the WHOLE UNIT for $200
its in working order. PM me if you would like it , as mine has gone to clutch fan.
cause it will save you (and drama of) from buying bits of the unit.