Originally posted by Wantsawillys
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CRD not starting after flexplate replacement
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Yeah, that's probably because the data port on the WG is not strictly OBDII.
You can plug in an obd2 reader and a very select few will get bugger all data from it.
That's why the WJdiag app is a must for these jeeps. Pay for the pro version, it's only a couple of bucks, the developer well deserves it.
I use that, and just a basic bluetooth obd2 dongle I bought from Jaycar for about $80.
I'm sure I could have gotten that cheaper elsewhere but I was in a hurry as always.
The WJDiag app can read everything, and talk to all modules, and lets you test and activate almost everything on the jeep.
You can also reset the transmission out of limp mode with it (which you WILL end up doing at some point) and that's usually a dealer only task.
You'll also find that you'll get codes with the reader that don't display when you do the key trick to read them off the odo screen.
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Originally posted by RTB View PostHow long should the fuel rail hold pressure for??
I just did the test on mine for shits and giggles. Zero pressure before start, cranks and starts fine with rail pressure quickly to 300. Shut it down and went for an immediate restart. Just prior to the second start, and within 10 seconds of shutting it down, the rail pressure was already pretty much zero again. Tried again and same thing. DiagPro stayed connected well the whole time with continually changing data.
Pretty sure my starter is on its way out (new weird noise from it), but the engine still starts within 1 or 2 seconds of cranking.
Just wondering if I should be planning on future rail pressure problems or if this rail pressure behavior is seen by others.
My KJ lasts a little longer, maybe up to a minute, but then all the pressure is gone as far as the scan tool is concerned.
However if you crack a connection on the rail, there is enough pressure left for a pop and a squirt of diesel to come out, so it's not completely drained.
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Originally posted by Straubz View Postok, so fuel pressure is getting upto 3000ish psi, what settings should i be looking at on the wjdiag app?
If you have a friend, get them to crank the car while you do the next test.
Standard disclaimer about not getting body parts stuck in moving engine parts.
Let's see if you're getting injector pulse as part of the starting sequence ie. fuel pressure ok, injectors are firing.
Grab a test light, take the wiring connector off the first injector.
Slap your test light ground lead onto the battery negative post.
Key ON, but not cranking here...
Touch each of terminals on that connector, one will be 12v live with key on, the other is ground.
The ecu pulses the ground on these injectors to fire them.
Once you have located the 12v constant, you're going to want to put your test light ground clamp on the positive battery post, and touch your test lamp probe to the ground pin in that terminal. Hold it there.
Now have your friend crank the engine.
Keep an eye on your test light and see if it starts pulsing.
If it does, great, ecu thinks fuel pressure is ok, and is trying to fire the injectors.
If not, we look into fuel pressure issues.
Either way we learn something and get to move to the next issue.
By the way, did you snapshot your codes, clear them and start from scratch?
What were the new codes generated when you tried to start the car?
Then after giving it a huff off starter fluid and the car actually started running, what were the new codes generated?
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forgot to snapshot the codes but all looked to be from a bad battery, none came back but did not try to get it going with starter fluid again, thinking about just sending it to a mechanic, already started the rego transfer so need to get it going and get a roady sorted asap
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I'll check the one of mine that does start this afternoon and tell you what it gets up to before starting.
RTB earlier said his was 300.
If we can determine that it's just not reaching fuel pressure, then we can do the easy fixes.
The fact you got it to start with starting fluid but it ran poorly usually indicates poor fuel pressure.
You can check that on the app, you can get it to display the fuel pressure setpoint and fuel pressure actual.
So give it a huff to get it started, monitor those values as you put your foot down and see if the actual pressure matches what the ecu is demanding.
At least yours is getting to the 200 mark.
I rebuilt my pump, hoses and seals, and i can't get any pressure because of the excessive leak back on my injectors.
The worst part about that one is I was driving it just fine, then one afternoon put my foot down to overtake, engine shut off, and never started on its own again.
I'll post back this afternoon after i give the running one a kick.
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