Yet another "My XJ Runs HOT" Post

[BillabongXJ]

God I hope you don't work in a job that requires maths, let me help you out there (I don't need a calculator to do these basic sums but you better use one when you check them);

650/2.5= 260
650*2.5= 1625
1900/2.5= 760
1900*2.5= 4750
1900/650= 2.92
1500/2.5= 600
1500*2.5= 3750
1500/650=2.3
3750/2.5= 1500
3750*2.5= 9375
3750/1900= 1.97

so what exactly is the same between them (other than nothing) that you are trying to point out......

One thing worth pointing out, the figures your quoting are the m3h measurements not the CFM. Which is why they appear to be higher. They're just totally different measurements.
You will not find such drastic differences with same voltage and similar dimension fans.

Well 2 decent 10" electric fans cost less than your crappy 16" fan, as for the rest it is clearly not worth replying as you simply don't seem to be able to read, do maths or understand something very basic......there are others here I have helped but some are clearly beyond it.

Anyone in the know will say you need around 2000 CFM or more in a 16inch configuration to replace a clutch fan in a XJ Jeep.
Im not saying you can get similar results with 3 small fans its just not the easiest way or cheapest.

Compared to the following
Starting with a very effective 12" fan, broad blades, excellent flow, made to fit.
Purpose made shroud which again is made to fit with the radiator lugs and can be removed with 2 bolts to get it out of the way to change a pulley or radiator hose. Very easy and cheaply and quickly modified with a 16" fan there's more than one but the $50 works. Occasionally people re rout the belt and fit bigger fans but the one thing in common is they go for a factory moulded shroud weather its off the jeep or its off a ford its hard to beat a purpose made shroud.

certainly a setup like this cant be challenged by a flat piece of tin with a couple of 10" fans. . Even you know that fans pressed hard against the radiator dont work as effectively as they're trying to pull air straight from the matrix it dosent work so well..

Might want to "try" reading through again, hence the "what are you on about"........

Again I point out that I think you need to spend more time reading and less time commenting...... Oh and just because something was "purpose built" does not mean it is any good .

Take a look at a professional thermo fan set up, they use a large plastic moulded shroud with smooth ducting. Much like the stock jeep shrouds.

Compare that with your piece of tin with some holes cut in it. Thats effectively blocking any area in the core where the fans aren't situated. I understand the air can move around that tin but its making 2 90 degree hard turns.

That's what you get for buying a crappy fan that only produces 1900cfm for 220W, (crap motor, crap output, crap design in general) and is hardly an issue for a smaller fan that is also thinner and can be placed off centre to the water pump pulley giving even more room to play with....

Ive looked at a couple of reputable catalogues. Jay Air automotive climate control catalogue. but come to the conclusion your mistakenly quoting m3h as CFM figures.

Not too impressed by the reviews on this site for the 10 inch fans

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prm-19120/overview/

"Does not pull any where near 2300 cfm
Summit RacingSummit Racing Verified Purchase

Put 3 of these on my 99 jeep cherokee would not cool as well as the mechanical fan. Probably more suited for 4 cyl small car applications."

Id be cautious of retailers like this, you will find them selling a very similar looking low profile fan that you can buy for half the price elsewhere. Even claming more than double the flow from a very similar looking fan.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-12V-Slim-Radiator-Cooling-Thermo-Fan-Mounting-kit-/121017528516?hash=item1c2d34f0c4:g:wyIAAOSw2XFUZdcZ

looks exactly like

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prm-19120/overview/

one claiming 2350cfm one claming a more realistic 800.

Now you are just making sh$t up for the sake of it.......lol what are you basing this off, your "educated" guess???

Its very straight forward. Like I said the tin shroud is no match for the factory shroud due to the obstruction of core surface.

[djh13]

You guys are really into radiators hey.

[rainman]

Go Taurus fan..............Just saying.

[bruggz351]

Sigh

Sent from my HTC_0PJA10 using Tapatalk

[Redemptioner]

One thing worth pointing out, the figures your quoting are the m3h measurements not the CFM. Which is why they appear to be higher. They're just totally different measurements.
You will not find such drastic differences with same voltage and similar dimension fans.

Man I got to get me some of what you are smoking, it's like watching a meth addict pick at their scabby skin while they tell you they don't have a drug problem........ 1+2= 64 now?`

All figures I have quoted have been CFM, not going to help you much trying to call a spade a helicopter, fact is your maths stinks and so does the fan you bought nothing is going to change that.

Anyone in the know will say you need around 2000 CFM or more in a 16inch configuration to replace a clutch fan in a XJ Jeep.

I take it the above wasn't enough to point out you should not be doing maths, now you are trying to convince us you need 2000CFM when your own crappy fan in free air does not even make it to that mark, add in the hack job at mounting a 16" fan to a 11" radiator and you will be well under 1000CFM so by my maths you are far short from your 2000CFM even if you throw in the CFM from your crappy fan chart for the AUX fan....

Im not saying you can get similar results with 3 small fans its just not the easiest way or cheapest.

I assume you meant to say "I'm not saying you can't get similar results with 3 small fans" which you did, on more than one occasion, memory gone as well I take it?

Compared to the following
Starting with a very effective 12" fan, broad blades, excellent flow, made to fit.

And this is based on your keen eye and sound judgement and expert experience I take it???

Purpose made shroud which again is made to fit with the radiator lugs and can be removed with 2 bolts to get it out of the way to change a pulley or radiator hose. Very easy and cheaply and quickly modified with a 16" fan there's more than one but the $50 works. Occasionally people re rout the belt and fit bigger fans but the one thing in common is they go for a factory moulded shroud weather its off the jeep or its off a ford its hard to beat a purpose made shroud.

There are 2 reasons people use the existing shroud, one because they don't know any better an listen to muppets without any idea what they are doing telling them that's how they did it so it must be the best way and the second is because adding more than one fan "sounds complicated" .... FFS everything you have put forward to back your position has either been made up or so completely wrong blind freddy can see it. Seriously dude just ask yourself why are there not a bunch of aftermarket kits done this way, the answer is blatantly obvious, because it is a really crappy way to go about it and if they are going to take the time to remove the clutch fan then they believe they should put something back in that is done at least half right.

certainly a setup like this cant be challenged by a flat piece of tin with a couple of 10" fans. . Even you know that fans pressed hard against the radiator dont work as effectively as they're trying to pull air straight from the matrix it dosent work so well..

Been on the internet looking up some stuff have we, probably should understand what you are reading before you start throwing around terminology like "matrix" oh so so funny. As for the " flat piece of tin" comments, I not sure why you keep implying this is the only way to do it with a 10" fan, certainly the pic I put up was not done this way but congrats for misconstruing a picture as an attempt to support your position

Take a look at a professional thermo fan set up, they use a large plastic moulded shroud with smooth ducting. Much like the stock jeep shrouds.

Au-contraire, I have spent an awful lot of time over the years looking at fans, props, pumps, ducting, heat-exchangers etc etc, maybe you should spend a little more time looking and a lot more reading without comment.

Compare that with your piece of tin with some holes cut in it. Thats effectively blocking any area in the core where the fans aren't situated. I understand the air can move around that tin but its making 2 90 degree hard turns.

Maybe it is just your eyes that are going and not a lack of ability to read and understand, have another CLOSER look, no flat bits of tin hard up against anything...... but you were saying something about two 90 degree turns and a suggestion about reduced air flow and somehow that setup (which I have not put forward at any stage) is worse than basically blocking all the airflow to half the input of a fan...... yup makes sense to me

Ive looked at a couple of reputable catalogues. Jay Air automotive climate control catalogue. but come to the conclusion your mistakenly quoting m3h as CFM figures.

REALLY, a JayAir catalogue for automotive climate control you say, well then that settles it then mustn't it

Not too impressed by the reviews on this site for the 10 inch fans

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prm-19120/overview/

"Does not pull any where near 2300 cfm
Summit RacingSummit Racing Verified Purchase
Put 3 of these on my 99 jeep cherokee would not cool as well as the mechanical fan. Probably more suited for 4 cyl small car applications."
Id be cautious of retailers like this, you will find them selling a very similar looking low profile fan that you can buy for half the price elsewhere. Even claming more than double the flow from a very similar looking fan.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-12V-Slim-Radiator-Cooling-Thermo-Fan-Mounting-kit-/121017528516?hash=item1c2d34f0c4:g:wyIAAOSw2XFUZdcZ

looks exactly like

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/prm-19120/overview/

one claiming 2350cfm one claming a more realistic 800.

so the other 24 positive reviews verse your 2 (well 5 in total) poor reviews isn't really selling your point, but not a bad try at misconstruing the overall opinion of the product, admittedly they are definitely in the crappy fan pile but certainly better than what you have been trying to sell us in 16" fans. FYI you should not use a straight fan blade when you are trying to pull air through ducting as you suffer major loss but what am I saying you already knew this right, because air can go 800km/h?

Its very straight forward. Like I said the tin shroud is no match for the factory shroud due to the obstruction of core surface.

There you go again trying to misconstrue something to back your dogmatic point, that image is of only part of the shroud but nice try, that is a very good product just a little on the pricey side, Dirt Bound make a similar product to the Novak one you posted but for a lot less and that is by no means the cheapest way to do it but of course is a direct bolt on no frking around and certainly no 16" fan hack. If you want to go all out then for around $460 you can get an upgraded all aluminium high flow radiator with a matching top notch aluminium shroud with 3 decent 10" fans and inbuilt transcooler direct bolt in, gain redundancy in multiple fans and improve the cooling by at least 400% for less than a OEM radiator.

Buddy you seriously do not have a clue what you are talking about, yes the 16" does kinda work (mark 2 or 3 was it?) but it is a really crappy hack job and is not worth anyone bothering to do.

[rustynuts]

I've got beer and nuts.

[Richard buttocks]

i can sum all this up easily

"3 10 inch fans are better than a 16 inch and the standard elec fan imho" redemptioner.


now, are we all done?

[Redemptioner]

i can sum all this up easily

"3 10 inch fans are better than a 16 inch and the standard elec fan imho" redemptioner.


now, are we all done?

Close, more like "just about anything is better than a crappy 16" electric fan hacked into the existing setup, possible even a cat swung by it's tail out the window"