2.8L CRD reliability/issues?

[Lord_Muck]

I had the oil pressure light problem when the smart mechanic didn't align the nipple on the oil filter cartridge, crushing it into place. I drop 1000ks until it was noticed and fixed, and thankfully over 10k later it did not cause any major issues.



Cheers

Do you happen to have a pic of it either set up incorrectly or correctly mate?

If i can solve the problem myself yet use the issue to haggle a bargain it could work out well......or not!

It's not actually at a Jeep dealership so they may not know the issue.

[Paul-JK]

It's not actually at a Jeep dealership so they may not know the issue.

That implies that a Jeep dealer would know....... probably wishful thinking

The one you're looking at is pre-dpf. Mine's an MY10 and it doesn't have one. I have a feeling the dpf's were added in MY11.

I'd also question whether the manual is the best choice if you're doing a lot of towing. As Midnightmods said, the 3.21 diff ratio's in the manuals don't do it any favours at all and just add more stress to clutch that is already at it's limits anyway. Probably OK if you're careful but pulling away up hills (or reversing as it has a tall reverse gear as well) will possibly give you issues. If you're dead set on it you might want to factor in a diff ratio change into you're buy in price......and get some lockers thrown in it while you're there!

Auto's get 3.73 diff ratio's, plus the torque converter in the auto box, plus an extra 50Nm torque from the engine. Yes you need to monitor temperatures but everything else stacks in favour of the auto for towing/heavy work. Of the guys I know with CRD manuals, many wish they'd got auto's. Of the guys I know with CRD auto's, none wish they'd got a manual!

[MidnightMods]

I own a manual and I have redone my gears, I still wish I went the auto!
Say what you like about over heating boxes (not very common unless in sand and can be over come with a simple tranny cooler which every auto should have anyways)
I would trade my manual for an auto any day of the week. And this is coming from driving and building race cars for 15 years..

[Lord_Muck]

Well my problem with even test driving an auto is...... there aren't any used 2008.5 to 2010 ones for sale in Western Australia.

There's a couple of 2007's and they're pretty cheap (low $20's for 100K kms) but for fuel economy and power these aren't favourable, is it a different engine entirely or just retuned/turbo setup etc?

[Paul-JK]

Yeah, the CRD auto's sell quick.

2007 CRD auto is probably a good choice if you're towing a lot.

From memory both the manual and auto 2007's had the same engine tune and the same diff ratios. I think all 2007's got 4.1 diff ratio's, like the Rubi's. Could be wrong on that but I'm sure someone will pipe up if I am. If they did get 4.1 ratios then that can only be a good thing if you're towing, and will also be good if you want to add larger tyres. Only down side might be fuel economy on longer runs as you'll be pulling higher revs.

From '08 onwards I think the auto got a a re-tune to give it 50Nm extra output but the manual didn't as the clutch couldn't cope with it. The manuals changed to 3.21 diff ratios and the auto got 3.73 (the Rubi's kept the 4.1's).

The next major changes were in 2011 I think with a change in engine spec and newer auto box.

[MidnightMods]

In factory form they are sluggish, Remove the rear muffler and get a GDE tune and they are far from slow, and will get 10lts per 100 on the freeway (depending on lift and rubber size with matched gearing)

[Lord_Muck]

Yeah, the CRD auto's sell quick.

2007 CRD auto is probably a good choice if you're towing a lot.

From memory both the manual and auto 2007's had the same engine tune and the same diff ratios. I think all 2007's got 4.1 diff ratio's, like the Rubi's. Could be wrong on that but I'm sure someone will pipe up if I am. If they did get 4.1 ratios then that can only be a good thing if you're towing, and will also be good if you want to add larger tyres. Only down side might be fuel economy on longer runs as you'll be pulling higher revs.

From '08 onwards I think the auto got a a re-tune to give it 50Nm extra output but the manual didn't as the clutch couldn't cope with it. The manuals changed to 3.21 diff ratios and the auto got 3.73 (the Rubi's kept the 4.1's).

The next major changes were in 2011 I think with a change in engine spec and newer auto box.

Hmmmmm now you see this could be a critically useful piece of information as the ratio's are probably half the cause of the economy figures anyway and i intend on fitting bigger tyres.

Can someone confirm this?

I don't buy cars for fuel economy alone, my other car is a 4.4L V8 BMW X5 auto and i drive 42km each way to work, it's returning a consistent 13.5L/100km at the moment, which i can live with given the power etc. Any better than that with a lift and tyres etc is a bonus.

[Paul-JK]

In factory form they are sluggish, Remove the rear muffler and get a GDE tune and they are far from slow, and will get 10lts per 100 on the freeway (depending on lift and rubber size with matched gearing)

I'll second that. Took the muffler off years ago and now using over 1L/100km less fuel after getting the GDE tune fitted so that'll pay for itself in a couple of years. I only wish I'd gotten the tune done years ago.