WG Window Fix
My WG last week , the drivers door module stopped working and that meant no window, mirror or door lock control. The key fob would unlock all doors except the drivers and also the imobilliser was off line. The chimes would go when the engine was shut down with key in ignition and door shut.
Read the good book and checked out the forums, and today got to work to fix it.
You will need:
Soldering Iron, solder etc.
Side cutters
Heat shrink
Strong fingers
Torch.
Disconnect the battery and open the drivers door, in the gap you will see a a rubber cable boot which carries the cables to the door, on the door side you will need to squeeze the two protusions at the top and bottom of the boot this will allow the boot and cable socket to come away from the door.
To disconnect the socket look for a red tab and slide it to unlock, then push the tab above it and the socket will come apart.
While doing this you should find a broken wire, this is the problem.
It is easier if you can repair this wire without pulling the boot off from the body. Solder in about 6" of new wire and don't forget to put the heat shrink over the wire before soldering, place the joins so they are clear of the hinging point of the cable then replace the boot.
The wire that broke was a black one, (power feed) about as flexible as household wiring, I replaced about 6" with wire from HD extension lead better flex and will hopefully do the job.
If you have to pull the boot away from the body side you will need to remove the kick panel next to the accelerator,( it has a plastic Torx nut near the peddle and a hidden spring clip near the bonnet release) You will have to remove a section of the step plate, lift one end and with a flat screwdriver push the metal tab you can just see, there are 3 or 4 of them, lift the panel away then remove 4 screws to remove the next bit which is part of the kick panel, you will need patience and sturdy fingers to get the bloody boot back in position. Thats the only reason for removing the panel, so you can get the boot to seal up again.
If you cannot find a break then I would advise removing the door liner and testing the Door Module, but thats another story.
From what I've read people have been charged $300, I took 2 hrs max and $2 for some heat shrink.
So if you have this problem and prefer the professional to fix it, just have a look for the wire it may save you a lot of $$$ in labour as the manual has you getting into the door first of all.
Read the good book and checked out the forums, and today got to work to fix it.
You will need:
Soldering Iron, solder etc.
Side cutters
Heat shrink
Strong fingers
Torch.
Disconnect the battery and open the drivers door, in the gap you will see a a rubber cable boot which carries the cables to the door, on the door side you will need to squeeze the two protusions at the top and bottom of the boot this will allow the boot and cable socket to come away from the door.
To disconnect the socket look for a red tab and slide it to unlock, then push the tab above it and the socket will come apart.
While doing this you should find a broken wire, this is the problem.
It is easier if you can repair this wire without pulling the boot off from the body. Solder in about 6" of new wire and don't forget to put the heat shrink over the wire before soldering, place the joins so they are clear of the hinging point of the cable then replace the boot.
The wire that broke was a black one, (power feed) about as flexible as household wiring, I replaced about 6" with wire from HD extension lead better flex and will hopefully do the job.
If you have to pull the boot away from the body side you will need to remove the kick panel next to the accelerator,( it has a plastic Torx nut near the peddle and a hidden spring clip near the bonnet release) You will have to remove a section of the step plate, lift one end and with a flat screwdriver push the metal tab you can just see, there are 3 or 4 of them, lift the panel away then remove 4 screws to remove the next bit which is part of the kick panel, you will need patience and sturdy fingers to get the bloody boot back in position. Thats the only reason for removing the panel, so you can get the boot to seal up again.
If you cannot find a break then I would advise removing the door liner and testing the Door Module, but thats another story.
From what I've read people have been charged $300, I took 2 hrs max and $2 for some heat shrink.
So if you have this problem and prefer the professional to fix it, just have a look for the wire it may save you a lot of $$$ in labour as the manual has you getting into the door first of all.
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