oils ain't oils

[Redbox]

Am running penrit fully syn 15w60, I am running EVO armor on the sump. On 3.8, have found with the armour that the oil temp gets up high and oil pressure would suffer.
Now have serpentine cooler, so temps not so bad. Never get oil pressure problems.
Was changing oil at 5k, oil would be burnt and thin, now have done 12k on this oil, pressure still good, oil still looks and smells good.

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[Wazza D]

Am running penrit fully syn 15w60, I am running EVO armor on the sump. On 3.8, have found with the armour that the oil temp gets up high and oil pressure would suffer.
Now have serpentine cooler, so temps not so bad. Never get oil pressure problems.
Was changing oil at 5k, oil would be burnt and thin, now have done 12k on this oil, pressure still good, oil still looks and smells good.

Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

Well there you go. That's a pretty lumpy oil.
How many Kms have you done on this oil RB and how many has engine done?

[Redbox]

Just shy of 150k on my engine, a 15 in Perth in winter in a push rod motor is not heavy, on saying that my wife's Suzuki Liana is running on 15w40/50 depends on what I have at the time, it is twin can 16 valve,no noise, no oil use between oil changes.
The jeep has a lifter noise on start up so on my way of thinking thinker would be worse.
In a penstar I would go thiner on the cold rating but still
Push out to a heavyer hot number as there is the extra capacity on the oil to last.
Modern motors do have finer clearances but a push rod 3.8 is a tractor motor, lighter oils burn during service intervals.
The 3.8 push rod soccer mum motor, uses piston cooling jets so the oil is punished a lot so oil temp is high, so thickness and quality are important.
This is a choice thin I use penrite, I am happy with it, would not use shell. Have used caltex oils in a fleet of case loaders, got rid of that event from delo silver cheap to delo 400 expensive gear ran worse, noisey, burnt oil lots of it, changed to RX Super all probs went away, then moved to Penrite as they did a 15w50 diesel oil, even better no problems if we could not get to the machine for service due, OK to extend if needed as the oil had more capacity to cope with the stress longer.



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[Redbox]

Really if you are keeping the car for only the warranty period then put in any old crap cheap substand oil you can find.
If you wish to keep the car then treat it with good oil. Start and warm before giving it to it, summer and winter. Change the oil often use name brand filters. Get the oil nice and hot when you go to change, let it fully drain, use good coolant, keep you radiator clean. Let the motor idle for a short time after a long or hard run.

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[wranglertj]

Really if you are keeping the car for only the warranty period then put in any old crap cheap substand oil you can find.
If you wish to keep the car then treat it with good oil. Start and warm before giving it to it, summer and winter. Change the oil often use name brand filters. Get the oil nice and hot when you go to change, let it fully drain, use good coolant, keep you radiator clean. Let the motor idle for a short time after a long or hard run.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app

disagree with this competely as i you should consider the poor sap that will buy after you sell it, the world is gone to crap if we are that self centred

[Redbox]

This is not my attitude, but it is an option, I maintain my vehicle well, use good quality oil, filters and parts.
The car sales system is now geared towards, lease buy new sell on at 3-5 years, the vehicle is a total consumable that is changed like there mobile phone.
My jeep when I got her a 2008 JKUR, when I got her home I started to find problems, flogged trakbar bushers, bent drag link, damaged adjuster in tie rod and damagef tie rod ends,front diff, trans, transfer case had water in them, front diff bent bad, both front axels shafts damaged, drivers side half shaft flange bent, pas side half shaft spline twisted, park brake shoe damaged, smart bar sway bar moded to knob but seazed in the open position, front tail shaft worn, rear tail shaft cv's damaged, abs module u/s, battery box melted, battery leaking due to being melted, noisie 6 speed trans, u/s ball joints, u/s front half shaft uni joint's. Oil leak from transfer case.
When this fixed then the rest of the problems started,
Clutch failed, clock spring failed, PCM failed, fuel pump module u/s low pressure, cat converter failed, butt plugs missing from floor causing water to get in, holes drilled in the body on spots letting water in, clutch slave cylinder u/s.
I have found out the jeep has been rolled at less that a year old, I have fixed many thing on this jeep, there is still more to do as I have found I have bent my straighten sleeved any gustated d44.
I love my jeep I will have her for a long time.
But the way you would look after and maintain your vehicle is not the way others do, I run the heavy oil, I service early as a rule.


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[MDK]

What about your diff oils?

Popped the rear cover off for a look. Wouldn't mind filling it back up tomorrow before going to work.

80/90? or something else? Have some 90 LSD on the shelf, any good?

[wranglertj]

You don't need a LSD additive as JK doesn't have one so save your money